LUNN
← Doctor’s Column
Pigmentation & redness

Pico toning: why does melasma pigmentation return?

Pico toning: why does melasma pigmentation return?

Pico toning is a pigmentation treatment that uses short pulses of laser energy to break melanin into smaller particles to improve melasma and other pigmented spots.

However, melasma is a chronic pigmentation disorder that tends to recur, and the pigmentation can darken again even after treatment depending on post-treatment care.

To reduce recurrence, sun protection and measures to limit irritation should continue together. Individual results vary.

➊How does pico toning work on melasma?

Pico toning (a procedure that uses short pulses of laser to break up pigment) works by delivering a high level of energy for a very short period, effectively fragmenting melanin particles within the skin.

The key principle is to selectively break down pigment before heat spreads to surrounding tissue.

This allows pigment to be broken down at lower energy and tends to place less strain on the epidermis. However, less thermal damage does not mean that the pigment will disappear completely.

The depth of the pigment targeted also varies depending on the wavelength, with shorter wavelengths being more suitable for superficial skin pigments and longer wavelengths for deeper skin pigments.

➋Why do pigmented spots and melasma respond differently to pico toning?

Pigmented spots and melasma can respond differently to the same pico-toning treatment.

Epidermal pigmentation, such as solar lentigines and freckles, often shows noticeable improvement over a relatively short period.

Conversely, melasma is classified as a complex pigmentation disorder because it involves blood vessels and inflammatory factors in the deeper layers of the skin, and is sensitive to external stimuli such as hormones and ultraviolet radiation.

Comparative studies following various treatments have also reported that the degree of melasma improvement varies between individuals, with some treatment courses ending without substantial change.

CategoryPigmented spots and solar lentiginesMelasma
Location of pigmentsMainly in the epidermisCombination of epidermis and dermis
Response speedRelatively fastGradually, there is a significant difference between individuals.
Tendency for recurrenceRelatively lowIt is a condition that tends to recur.
Sensitivity to stimuliLowHigh; irritation may worsen the condition

“Unlike ordinary pigmented spots, melasma is a chronic pigmentation disorder that is sensitive to irritation and may temporarily become darker.”

➌What causes the pigmentation to reappear?

The primary reason for the recurrence of melasma is that it is a chronic skin condition characterized by a tendency to reappear.

Even if the existing pigments have been broken down, if the cells responsible for producing pigments remain active, they can react to stimuli such as UV radiation, friction, and inflammation, and produce pigments again.

Pico toning treatment equipment

Some studies have observed a temporary worsening of the lesion during treatment, which is attributed to the pigment cells becoming more active in response to stimulation.

In such cases, the interval between treatments needs to be extended rather than increasing treatment intensity.

If post-treatment sun exposure is not adequately managed, it can lead to a vicious cycle where the faded pigment darkens again.

Therefore, recurrence is more closely related to the inherent characteristics of melasma itself, rather than being solely due to the failure of the treatment.

➍Aftercare: what can help reduce recurrence?

After Pico toning, the most fundamental aspect of aftercare is sun protection.

In melasma, ultraviolet exposure tends to reactivate pigment-producing cells, so applying sunscreen consistently is important for maintaining results.

Items to be managedRecommendations
Sun protectionApply sunscreen daily, whether or not you go out, and reapply during outdoor activities.
Treatment intervalAllow intervals of several weeks, checking the skin’s response along the way.
Skin irritationAvoid excessive friction, exfoliation, and the use of irritating ingredients.
Topical aftercare productsProduct designed for moisturizing and soothing purposes, to aid in repairing the skin barrier.

Immediately after the procedure, the skin barrier may become sensitive, so focusing on soothing and moisturizing treatments can be helpful. However, it is difficult to definitively state that a specific ingredient prevents recurrence.

Key takeaways from PicoToning:
  • ✓A: Focus on selecting the target wavelength for epidermal pigmentation (spots).
  • ✓ B: Melasma with mixed dermal involvement — combine low intensity with appropriate treatment intervals
  • ✓ Sun protection is essential for both, and treatment intensity should be adjusted to the goal.

➎Potential side effects and precautions after Pico toning

While pico-toning is generally reported to have a lower incidence of post-inflammatory pigmentation compared to nanosecond lasers, this does not mean that it is completely free of this side effect.

Occasionally, pigmentation or hypopigmentation, along with redness, may occur.

If redness persists for more than a few days or if irritation continues, it is important to seek professional medical attention rather than attempting to self-treat.

Ignoring the condition can actually increase the risk of developing pigmentation.

While the temporary darkening of the treated area with pigment may be normal, it is important to adjust the treatment plan if the discoloration persists.

Darker skin tones or rapidly spreading melasma are associated with a relatively higher risk of adverse effects, so a more cautious approach is needed.

➏When Pico-toning is recommended, and when caution is advised

I recommend pico toning for people concerned about mainly epidermal pigmented spots or solar lentigines, or for those whose melasma is stable and not spreading rapidly.

In such cases, relatively predictable improvements can be expected.

However, if the melasma has recently become significantly larger or if there has been a significant change in hormone levels or pregnancy, which has led to increased pigmentation, it may be better to prioritize stabilization before undergoing treatment.

From the hospital's perspective, procedures can contribute to revenue, but prioritizing the patient's well-being may sometimes mean delaying the procedure.

"Melasma is a chronic pigmentation disorder that tends to recur, so it should be approached as a condition that requires ongoing management rather than a one-time treatment that provides a complete solution."

Clinic interior for pico-toning treatment

QFrequently asked questions

How many Pico toning sessions are typically needed to see results?

In cases of melasma, instances have been reported where treatments were administered an average of 3 to 5 times, with intervals of 7 to 8 weeks between sessions.

The number of sessions may vary with the condition of the lesions. Individual results vary.

Does pigmentation sometimes become more pronounced after Pico toning?

Yes, there have been reports of a temporary worsening of the affected area during treatment.

At this time, the response involves increasing the spacing to reduce stimulation.

Does pico toning work better for ordinary pigmented spots or for melasma?

Epidermal pigmented spots tend to respond more quickly and clearly, while melasma is considered relatively difficult to treat because of dermal factors and its tendency to recur.

Are Pico lasers less likely to cause side effects compared to nanosecond lasers?

Pico toning has been reported to cause less post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation than nanosecond lasers, but hypopigmentation or temporary worsening of pigmentation may still occur rarely.

What does a pico-toning treatment involve?

The type of pigmentation and the skin tone are assessed first, then the wavelength and intensity are selected.

After a 1:1 consultation, you will receive a plan tailored to your condition. Individual results vary.

References

  • A retrospective analysis of low-fluence 730nm picosecond laser treatment for melasma, published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2024
  • Randomized Controlled Trial Comparing 755nm Pico Alexandrite Laser and QS+Nd:YAG Combined Therapy in a Publication in "Lasers in Surgery and Medicine" (2024)

Treatment for melasma focuses on managing the condition rather than eliminating the pigmentation itself. It involves ongoing care to prevent the pigmentation from darkening again.

Pico toning uses short laser pulses to break down melanin and is used to improve melasma and other pigmented spots. Aftercare must accompany treatment to reduce recurrence.

A direct examination is needed to determine whether your current pigmentation is mainly epidermal or closer to a frequently recurring mixed dermal type.

If you have any questions, please consult with a doctor to get the information you need.

Dr. Park Hyungkwon, Director and Dermatologist

After pico toning, redness, swelling, pinpoint bleeding and, rarely, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation or temporary worsening of pigmentation may occur. This is a side-effect disclosure under Article 56 of Korea’s Medical Service Act.

Treatment and procedure results may vary depending on the individual’s condition.

This column is intended to provide medical information.

Dr. Park Hyungkwon, Director and Dermatologist
Dr. Park Hyungkwon, Director and Dermatologist

Master’s degree in dermatology from Hanyang University College of Medicine and Graduate School; dermatology fellowship at Hanyang University Medical Center. Provides care through the Signature Synergy Program at LUNN Clinic.

About the doctor →
Dr. Park Hyungkwon
Dr. Park Hyungkwon

Director of LUNN Clinic · Dermatologist

About the Doctor →

BEGIN WITH
CONSULTATION

Start with Dr. Park Hyungkwon
in a 1:1 consultation

CallKakaoTalkWhatsAppInstagramBlogNaver Place